People who invaded us through history have always been fascinated by the way women were looked upon in this land. Women have always seen as weaker strata of the society, in almost all the ancient places, and is treated as a slave.
On the contrary, this land from the beginning of the formation of gods there is equivalent or more action-oriented goddesses than gods. For instance, consider the following three gods who are the wives of the three major gods in India.
- Saraswati, wife of Brahma
- Lakshmi, wife of Vishnu
- Parvati, wife of Maheshwar
These are the wives of the creator, who is Brahma, Operator, Vishnu, and Reincarnator Maheshwar. While the two of these three gods are meditating, the third one is depicted in a sleeping posture. Quire opposite to this, Saraswati is shown to be playing Veena, depicting knowledge, Lakshmi pouring us prosperity and Parvati blessing us with Power and Strength.
Furthermore, their attire is all synonymous with what they stand for. Let us elaborate on this a little further. Yes, we are going to be discussing the Saree that the women of this place have been wearing for a very long time.
It has very much been the identity of the women of this land to be associated with Saree. This tradition has been very well maintained (unlike the other gender) through the centuries. We can proudly say that women have been wearing this tradition that represents both her culture and the culture of this land.
Sarees are a type of clothes that carry great respect for them. They are woven and textured with pattern garments. They are appropriate for two main purposes of this soil.
They have been attributed to an act of greater purity and simplicity.
- Purity because of the very sanctity that it possesses and the respect that it demands
- Simplicity because of the way it is made, the usage of the cloth to its whole
If you try to understand the way it is made, it is just a cloth that is of a rectangular shape, with different kinds of designs that are stitched in different materials.
You can also view this animated video to get to know in simple terms how to wear a Saree!
Sarees are diversified and are worn in different ways and styles in different places. They are also called in different names. But the beauty of unity in the land is the presence of it that is felt across the place, across the states, across the class, and across the different strata of the society.
What are the different names for Sarees in the different states of India?
|1||Uttar Pradesh||Dhoti, Lugdi, Lugga, Sari|
|3||Bihar/Jharkhand||Dhoti, Luga, Langa|
|4||Odisha||Dhoti, Saarhi, Luga|
|6||Madhya Pradesh||Jote, Lugda, Pata|
|7||Andhra Pradesh||Dhoti, Chire|
|9||Tamil Nadu||Selai, Podavai|
How do we measure Sarees using our hands?
Sarees are measured using fingers and hands. A combination of the fingers and usage of hands make up the basic measuring units of Saree. These below three are the major measuring units of a Saree.
- Fingers: Fingers are used to measure small measurements. One finger width is one inch. The measurements last till five finger width which will be equivalent to approximately 4.5 inches to 5 inches.
- Hands: Hand spans are used to measure medium distances and measurements. One handspan is approximately 9 inches. This is measured from one side of the stretched finger to the other side.
- Arms: For longer and faster measurements, arm lengths are considered. When we say one arm length it is from the fingertips to the elbow.
This video below will show you how you can measure using a handspan.
Each one of these measurements is used for a different purpose. Every one of those is important and comes in handy while measuring Sarees.
Like how they are measured, there are different types of folding systems in different directions, like North, South, and East.
What are the different types of Sarees?
Sarees are broadly categorized based on the
- Fabric, Design, and Weaving Style
- Wearing Style
Both changes with respect to places. A mild difference can be observed from one place to another that is closeby. Both ways we can classify the sarees into many categories. The way they change is mostly the same.
Let us first discuss the ninety-odd different types of sarees based on Weaving, Fabric, and Design styles, which is the former in our categorization above.
What are the different types of Sarees in different States?
|Saree Type||Place of Origin||Image|
|2||Mangalagiri Silk Sarees||Andhra Pradesh|
|3||Uppada Silk Sarees||Andhra Pradesh|
|4||Chirala Sarees||Andhra Pradesh|
|5||Bandar Sarees||Andhra Pradesh|
|7||Kuppadam Sarees||Andhra Pradesh|
|8||Dharmavaram silk saree||Andhra Pradesh|
|11||Patt Silk Saree||Assam|
|12||Tanta Cotton Saree||Odisha|
|13||Ikkat Silk & Cotton Saree||Odisha|
|16||Baluchari Sari||West Bengal|
|17||Bomkai Silk & Cotton Sari||Odisha|
|19||Jamdani / Dhakai||Bangladesh|
|21||Dhaniakhali cotton||West Bengal|
|24||Bandhani||Gujarat, Rajasthan, Pakistan, Sindh|
|28||Kerala sari silk and cotton||Kerala|
|32||Kalpathi silk sarees||Kerala|
|33||Samudrikapuram silk and cotton||Kerala|
|35||Bapta Silk & Cotton Saree||Odisha|
|36||Kotpad Pata Saree||Odisha|
|37||Chanderi Saree||Madhya Pradesh|
|38||Dhokra silk||Madhya Pradesh|
|45||Karvati tussar saree||Maharashtra|
|48||Manipuri Tant Saree||Manipur|
|49||Moirang Phi Saree||Manipur|
|50||Mattha Silk Saree||Odisha|
|51||Garode / Korial||West Bengal|
|52||Khandua Silk & Cotton Saree||Odisha|
|53||Bomkai Silk Saree||Odisha|
|56||Phulia cotton||Phulia, West Bengal|
|58||Kota doria||Rajasthan, Pakistan, Sindh|
|59||Rajshahi silk / Eri||Bangladesh|
|60||Sambalpuri Silk & Cotton Saree||Odisha|
|61||Shantipuri cotton||West Bengal|
|62||Sonepuri Silk & Cotton Saree||Odisha|
|64||Kanchipuram Silk||Tamil Nadu|
|65||Chettinad sarees||Tamil Nadu|
|68||Coimbatore cotton||Tamil Nadu|
|69||Salem silk||Tamil Nadu|
|70||Chinnalampattu or Sungudi||Tamil Nadu|
|72||Rasipuram silk sarees||Tamil Nadu|
|74||Arni silk saree||Tamil Nadu|
|77||Madurai cotton sarees||Tamil Nadu|
|78||Tiruchirappalli sarees||Tamil Nadu|
|79||Nagercoil sarees||Tamil Nadu|
|81||Thanjavur sarees||Tamil Nadu|
|83||Pochampally Sari or Puttapaka sari||Telangana|
|86||Taant sari||throughout Bengal|
|87||Kaantha sari||throughout Bengal|
Now that we have had a peek into the types of sarees available in India, there are some specific ways how some of the sarees from above have to be draped. This again is on the basis of places. Every place has a different style of tying a Saree.
What are the styles of tying a saree?
Please watch the below video to get an idea of how the same saree can be draped in different styles!
Let us see in the below table what are some of the styles that are categorized based on states and community.
|9||Mysore Shaili||Karnataka||Mysore Brahmins|
|15||Yakshagana Mali Kase||Karnataka||Male Characters|
|16||Yakshagana Parvati||Karnataka||Female Characters|
|17||Yakshagana Kase||Karnataka||Male Characters|
|21||Kalsi Dance||Goa||Konkani Brahmins|
|28||Kaashtkar||Maharasthra||Konkan Working Women|
|29||Kaamakari||Maharasthra||Working Rural Women|
|30||Konkanastha||Maharasthra||Women of Konkan|
|37||Seedha Palla||Gujarat||Urban Middle Class|
|41||East Chattisgarh||Chattisgarh||Central and east|
|44||Surguja Dance||Chattisgarh||North Chattisgarh Dance|
|46||Seedha Palla||Uttar Pradesh||All|
|47||Pagadi Palla||Uttar Pradesh||Agricultural|
|48||Lapetavali||Uttar Pradesh||Rural Urban|
|55||Santal Pargana||Jharkhand||Majhi Kurmi Tribes|
|56||Ranchi||Jharkhand||Bedia Santar Tribes|
|57||Tukupani Simgeda||Jharkhand||Bedia Santar Tribes|
|58||Palamu Mahuadanr||Jharkhand||Majhi Munda|
|60||Ranchi Saiko||Jharkhand||Bedia Santar Tribes|
|61||Kalna||Bengal||Lower Middle Class|
|71||Nadikattu||Andhra Pradesh||Weaving Agriculture|
|72||Venukagundaram||Andhra Pradesh||Kintala Kalinga|
|74||Gochi Kattu||Andhra Pradesh||Golla|
|75||Boggili Posi Kattikodam||Andhra Pradesh||Golla|
|76||Mudukongula Chira||Andhra Pradesh||Padma Sale|
|77||Mukkala Chira||Andhra Pradesh||Kapu (Agri)|
|78||Gudakattu||Andhra Pradesh||Newly Married Vaishnava|
|79||Kaccha Kattu||Andhra Pradesh||Older Vaishnava|
|80||Kuchipudi||Andhra Pradesh||Female Dancers|
|81||Pinn Kossavam||Tamil Nadu||Urban Working|
|82||Saurashtra Katt||Tamil Nadu||Saurashtra|
Without the kind of materials, we might not be interested to wear a particular saree, or might not even know when to wear what saree.
So, let us see in the below table about the most famous types of sarees and the materials that are used to make them. These are selected from the previous tables that are famous across the country, that is to be worn at different times.
What are the types of Saree materials along with their origin and feature?
|1||Baluchari Saree||Baluchar, West Bengal||Silk||Small Bhutti works on their body and wide borders||Depiction of mythological Scenes|
|2||Banarasi Saree||Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh||Silk and Copper, Silver, Plastic Threads||Intricate intertwining floral and foliate motifs||Goldwork, compact weaving, figures with small details, metallic visual effects, Pallus, Jal (a net-like Pattern), and mina work.|
|3||Bandhani Saree||Kutch, Gujarat||Cotton||Plucking the cloth by fingernails||Chandrakala, Bavan Baug, Shikari etcetera|
|4||Bomkai Saree||Bomkai, Odisha||Silk, Cotton||Design of Fish||Threadwork in the designs of the border and the pallu|
|5||Chanderi Saree||Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh||Pure Silk, Chanderi Cotton, Silk Cotton||Traditional coin, floral art, peacocks and geometric designs||Gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk, and opulent embroidery|
|6||Chiffon Saree||France||Cotton, silk or synthetic fibers like nylon, rayon, and polyester||Both Manual and Machine||Hand printed using blocks|
|7||Chikan Saree||Lucknow, India||Muslin, silk, chiffon, organza, net||Delicate and artfully done hand embroidery||White thread is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments|
|8||Gadwal Saree||Gadwal, Telangana||Cotton body with silk pallu||Handcrafted woven sari style||The weave is so light that the saree can be packed in a matchbox|
|9||Georgette Saree||France||Crêpe fabric||Made with highly twisted yarns||Created by alternating S- and Z-twist yarns in both warp and weft.|
|10||Gota Saree||Rajasthan||Cotton Silk||Small pieces of zari ribbon are applied onto the fabric with the edges sewn down to create elaborate patterns||Gota is a gold or silver ribbon and lace from Lucknow|
|11||Ilkal Saree||Ilkal, Bagalkot, Karnataka||Cotton, Slik||Woven using cotton warp on the body and art silk warp for border and art silk warp for pallu portion of the saree||Joining of the body warp with pallu warp with a series of loops locally called as TOPE TENI technique|
|12||Kalamkari Saree||Andhrapradesh, Telangana||Cotton||“Kalam” or pen is used for freehand drawing of the subject and filling in the colors||Depicted deities and scenes are taken from the Hindu epics – Ramayana, Mahabharata, Purana and the mythological classics|
|13||Kanjeevaram Saree||Kanchipuram, Tamilnadu||Silk||Three shuttles are used||It is first separately woven and then delicately joined to the Sari|
|14||Kantha Saree||Eastern States||Cotton, Silk||Type of embroidery craft called Kantha Stitch||The entire cloth is covered with running stitches, employing beautiful motifs of flowers, animals, birds, and geometrical shapes|
|15||Kasavu Saree||Kerala||Cotton||Consists of two pieces of cloth, which have a colored stripe at the border known as kara||The festive occasion has golden colored borders or a broad zari border known as Kasavu|
|16||Kasta Saree||Maharashtra||Cotton||The word Kaashtha refers to the sari tucked at the back||Nine yards saree|
|17||Kerala Saree||Kerala||Cotton||A single piece of cloth||Cultural costume of women of the Malayali community|
|18||Konrad Saree||Tamil Nadu||Silk||Handwoven originally for Temple Deities||Does not feel like silk|
|19||Kosa Saree||Korba and Champa. Chattisgarh||Silk||Silkworms belonging to moth genus||Rich texture and natural deep gold color|
|20||Kota Doria Saree||Kota, Rajasthan||Silk||Royal fabric with fine arts||Made from migrated weavers from Mysore|
|21||Mangalagiri Saree||Mangalagiri, Andhra Pradesh||Cotton||Weaving with the help of pit looms from combed yarn by warp and woof interlacing||Nizam design is another characteristic of the fabric|
|22||Muga Saree||Assam||Silk||Larvae of the Assam silk moth feed on aromatic som and Soalu Leaves||This silk can be hand-washed with its luster increasing after every wash|
|23||Net Saree||Mughal Period||Polyester, Nylon||Open spaces||Different weaving patterns can be used|
|24||Paithani Saree||Aurangabad, Maharashtra||Fine Silk||Borders of an oblique square design, and a pallu with a Peacock design||Considered as one of the most expensive saris in India|
|25||Patola Saree||Patan, Gujarat||Silk||Double ikat sari||Once worn only by royal and aristocratic families|
|26||Phulkari Saree||Punjab||Silk and Cotton||The entire field is embroidered and filled with flowers||Starts from the center on the fabric called and spread to the whole fabric|
|27||Pochampally Saree||Bhoodan Pochampally, Telangana||Silk||Traditional geometric patterns in Ikat style of dyeing||Intricate geometric designs find their way into sarees and dress materials|
|28||Puttapaka Saree||Puttapaka, Telangana||Silk||Warp-based unlike most other ikats designed predominantly on the weft||Puttapaka tie and dye style of sarees|
|29||Sambalpuri Saree||Boundh, Odisha||Silk||Warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving||Incorporation of traditional motifs like Shankha (shell), Chakra (wheel), Phula (flower)|
|30||Tant Saree||Bangladesh||Cotton||Woven from cotton threads and distinguished by its lightness and transparency||Most comfortable saree for the South Asian hot and humid climate|
The most sought after saree type is the Kalamkari. They can be worn on any occasion, event, time, party, etc. and here are the details of the types of Kalamkari Saree with the preferred occasion it can be worn on.
Kalamkari Saree Types and Occasion
|Kalamkari Saree Type||Preferred Occasion||Image|
|1||Chanderi Kalamkari Sarees||Occasional Wear|
|2||Designer Kalamkari Sarees||Party Wear|
|3||Hand Painted Kalamkari Sarees||Party/Casual Wear|
|4||Kalamkari Border Sarees||Daily/Official/Casual Wear|
|5||Kalamkari Chiffon Sarees||Daily/Party/Casual Wear|
|6||Kalamkari Cotton Sarees||Casual Wear|
|7||Kalamkari Crepe Sarees||Official/Casual Wear|
|8||Kalamkari Georgette Sarees||Casual/Office Wear|
|9||Kalamkari Half Sarees||Casual Wear|
|10||Kalamkari Kerala Saree||Function Wear|
|11||Kalamkari Patch Work Sarees||Office/Daily Wear|
|12||Kalamkari Pattu Sarees||Function Wear|
|13||Kalamkari Printed Sarees||Official/Casual Wear|
|14||Kalamkari Silk Sarees||Party, Event Wear|
|15||Pedana Kalamkari Sarees||Daily Wear|
With the above details, it comes to us as a clear indication that the whole culture is not different from the traditions our ancestors have left with us. This culture (read more about the diversity of Indian culture here) has been the only surviving one that has also evolved, following democracy.
By, all in all, we should not forget our roots, that being the diversity. If you happened to look at the complete article, you can conclude how strong are the roots of diversity in this land. Also, how strong we have stood united no matter what.
In the end, I would like to thank the womenfolk who have continued contributing, following the traditions and culture of this wonderful nation.